Days 29 to 40 - Weeks 5 to 6 (2nd December 2006 to 13th December 2006)
From our dune camp – it was a short drive to "Le Frontier" between Morocco and Mauritania. A bit of a long winded crossing here – but still as hassle free as is comfortable. A couple of hrs finalizing our exit – we trundle through 5 kms of "No Mans Land" to Mauritania. Visas were organized at the border without any hassle – a relief as we could not get them done whilst in Casablanca.
While at the border – an old and weathered old man wearing a pink head scarf requests our attention. He claims he is Achmed – our desert guide for the Sahara !!!! I was a bit unsure – especially as the only reference I had of him was a photocopy of a photo from the last Trans crew. Trusting his word – more so after recognising the handwriting of last years Tour Leader - on a reference of recommendation that he carries around with him to drum up further business. Folded, creased, sat on – it was looking as weathered and battered as the guide who we had just entrusted to safely take us through one of the worlds most inhospitable environments. At a costly 300 Euros for the service – it is still money well spent due the unpredictable nature of ever shifting sands. I promised to write him a new shiny reference on our safe journey and exit out of the desert.
Our aim was not to go the easy route down the new tarseal "Sahara Super Highway" from Noadhibou (our 1st Mauritanian stop and the entry point into the Sahara Desert) to Nouckchott (the Capital and exit point from our desert crossing). We had opted to shun away with ease and speed of tarseal and to drive through as much of the desert without hitting traditional road as possible.
On entering Noadhibou – we extended our 1st "roughing it" stage of the trip by shunning formal campsites and headed out of town to a bay littered with dozens of shipwrecks – all laid to rest after fraudulent Insurance claims. Other than being the staging post for Prue's Birthday (the 1st on trip) we were also treated to the company and antics of some local children. They picked the right night to find a group of tourists (not hard – seeing as we drove straight through their ramshackle of houses in a truck resembling a huge yellow banana !!!! Couldn't really miss us if you tried.) – as they were lucky enough to share in our meal and birthday treats. Being the good – well behaved kids that they were (not always the case with some of the cheeky kids we meet out here) they even washed up their plates and flap dried (the way we attempt to dry all our plates, utensils etc out here – whilst resembling a flightless bird trying desperately in earnest to get airborn !!) them without any instruction. If only the group had picked up this sequence of washing up so quickly !!!!! Unfortunately we did not have any room for a few pint sized stow aways.
With this 1st encounter of Mauritania – the change in the people (darker and more stereotypical of African descent) – it now felt like we were in Africa proper. More so French speaking here- Max rattled off his schoolboy French (even though he is only 18 himself !!!- one of the youngest on the trip) and had a laugh with the kids. One of them seemed destined to become a budding soccer star by the display of his natural talent with our truck ball. All Africans cannot get enough of the "beautiful game" – with most having a natural flare and agility. Driving through some towns – you can sometimes see whole fields / plains being used by dozens of mini teams dressed in miss matching multi coloured "uniforms", playing makeshift world cup matches around the sand, dirt, rubbish pits - but always with a smile and a lot of noise.
Stocking up on fresh supplies for our desert crossing and trying to get used to the new Oughiya currency (known as Ougie Doobies to us) we fuelled up and filled all of our water jerry cans from a well outside of town. We were lucky enough to see the famous Iron Ore Train come into town after journeying from the interior of the country. This is the longest train in the world – sometimes up to 3kms of carriages carrying the lucrative mineral. Three trains enter and three depart every day – supposedly it is free to ride on top of the iron ore – a sure fire way to mix with the locals – let alone looking like one by the time all the loose iron ore dust coats you with a film of soot !
Our anticipated run through the Sahara desert was now upon us !!! All prepared with food, water, emergency stocks and important local traditions in wardrobe – the ever needed face and head scarf,which could possibly have been our saviour in times of strong whippy sandy wind.
Most of the journey through the desert consisted of hardened piste routes with pockets of soft sand, all waiting in readiness for us to practice our digging skills and getting them down packed. Achmed was not happy when the truck performed without any hitches or challenge. His favourite saying to us (and some of the only English words that he blurted out randomly) was "Stuck – Stuck is Good / No Stuck – No Good" !!! With a few shakes and manoeuvres of his hand from left to right he would direct Brenda through the infamous sea of sand. Every now and again he would reward us with a thumbs up – signalling a good job had been achieved. Whenever he realized that the truck was performing too easily he would request a few "loop de loops" to wake everyone up at the back or to break the challenge free monotony.
A minor diesel leak on the 1st day saw us park up a bit earlier than planned. The meal that night was nicknamed "Diesel Pasta" as some of the kitchen and food stocks had gone for a potent swim. Anyways – we were ready for a change from the trusty tomato and garlic based sauce with which we were used to by now !!!!! Surprisingly there have been no repeat requests for diesel pasta !!
Our 1st two nights BC were close to some dunes, leaving our 3rd and last night (before reaching N'Chott) camped on the beach. Driving through the Parque de Arguin National Park – gave Frankie her 1st close up view of her favourite birds - Flamingos. Rob is forever on the lookout for more 1st sightings of birds or any wildlife to add to his catalogue of African Fauna. Sometimes there have been sightings of Dolphins here – but unluckily not for us. Its common that the dolphins here help the local Imragen fisherman round up scores of yellow mullet, which for these isolated people would be one of their only means of living and surviving in such a hostile climate. Luckily for us on this last morning – we were fortunate enough to see a great sight in the form of a camel train. Literally hundreds of camels (ships of the desert they are known as) bobbing up and down, making their way through the Sahara and eventually to the start of our desert adventure in Nouadhibou. Here they would be sold at one of the many camel markets as work animals or for meat – a delicacy out here.
At the Parks office we checked the time of the low tide – which is necessary to be able to successfully drive the last stretch of the crossing, which is on the beach and close to the lapping waves. This is every overlander's preferred route of choice, rather than the tarseal to N'Chott. Large dunes meet the coast and beach in many areas – we were lucky to have quite a wide stretch of beach to navigate. Passing through local coastal villages and driving over anchor lines whilst trying not to puncture our tyres in the process, all the while keeping up a good enough speed to not get too stuck. This is one section where Achmed didn't want any funny business or extra challenges. Making it to our last BC – calls for a game of cricket were met whilst cook group got dinner ready, as another Saharan Sun set before us.
A bit of a sleep in the next morning as we only had a short drive to join the tarseal road to N'Chott for approx 60 kms. A perky swim was had by some of us – whilst others kept warm by the breakfast fire – awaiting Pete, Laura H and Adams already famous fried egg breakfasts.
The desert also signalled an insurge of testosterone – with most members of the group (male that is) opting to grow their hair and beards until Xmas – with even talk of itching our way till Cape Town. We will see !!!! In a few weeks we should all be donning Afro style heads and faces. No better time than now for some of us (mainly the crew) to try and thicken up the old patch and attempt to comb over the ever thinning bald spot – Good Luck x 10 is needed for this major miracle !!! Max and Mark (to Laura's disgust) had already had a few weeks head start on all of us – but it shouldn't take us long to catch up. Already some of us had been likened to Ali Baba, Osama Bin Laden and Jesus – all in good jest with the locals.
Noukachott – our 1st real chaotic African city – cars everywhere (which seemed to be held together with rust and a bolt or two (if lucky)) coupled with roundabouts with no rules causing more chaos and congestion – excellent.
Besides the odd swim – we have not had the option to even semi clean ourselves in the last 9 or so days of BC. Dirty, brown, sandy water was bid a big farewell down the plug hole – most of us emerging a bit more shiny and brand new looking after one of our 1st free hot showers in a long time. Up until now as we travelled through Morocco – mostly cold showers are available unless you fork out a few extra pennies.
With our 1 month anniversary passing by us whilst we were in the desert – a night out was organized at a pizza restaurant. Being one of the only places to sell alcohol in N'Chott – unfortunately it came at a price (and at $4USD a can - it was not worth it to most of us). We opted to save our pennies for cheaper sources of funny fuel further along.
With the monthly truck spring clean tackled the next morning – pots and pans were once again shiny enough to use as a mirror. Remaining food stocks counted – leaving us the rest of the day to wander around town. Local market shopping was the priority for cook groups while others gorged themselves at the middle eastern influenced eateries close by the camp. Good street food doe not come cheaper and more tasty than this – with mouth watering tasties like fried doughnut bread filled with fries or meat schwarma wraps. Yummo !!!! We even managed to stretch the Local Payment enough to gorge ourselves silly on them again at dinner.
Through the day some of us went down to the Marche de Pesce / Local Fish Market – which is along the beach front. Walking the length of the beach we saw boat after boat rested up or coming in from the days catch. The seas had been rough here lately as well – so there was not as much activity as usual. The locals went about their daily business either taking interest in our visit and initiating friendly conversation, or else they were totally oblivious to us being there. Even though we had already a plan for dinner – it seemed a waste to not buy any fish from such a fresh and local source. The atmosphere alone was worth the visit – but soon we succumbed and started bargaining hard. Prices started at €1 a fish, dropping to €1 a kilo, to a mere €2.50 for 24 fish !!!!! One of the great finds that we will remember for a long time – and the fish was great too.
In N'Chott – we bid farewell to some of the group who had decided to go it alone to Senegal and The Gambia. What were we going to do without these guys for nearly two weeks – what with all the extra space and food on the truck – how did we survive ????? It was total bliss (in the nicest possible way and we knew it was going to be hard to give up our freedom and space without a fight once we all met up in Bamako / Mali again). Their plan was to take the weekly train from Dakar to Bamako – usually a 35 hr journey (not accounting for delays – which are numerous!!). Nah – it was all OK really – we definitely missed the intrepid characters for all they were worth. Grey Johnno with his love of music – which he plays so loud from his Ipod that we can all perfectly hear even when he has his headphones in. How we were going to wither away to nothing without Grey Petes fried egg breakfasts and missing his stumble tumble exits from the campfire when he cant find / or has forgotten where his tent is – due to copious vodka injections. We were crossing our fingers that he would find his cold Guinness in Senegal – if he does we may have seen the last of the big guy ? And what about little Shua ? Breaking free from the Josh / Lisa Canada Club. We were waiting with baited breath for the stories from the "two greys and a gay"- as they referred to themselves in the email updates we received throughout our time apart.
B and Wazza, our Kiwi contingent were off to journey through Senegal by local transport. They successfully tackled a few of the hard to get to National Parks and wildlife spots with less hassle than they expected. Dan and Laura B made the last minute decision to leave the Oasis nest and also head south through Senegal and also The Gambia.
N'Chott was the next staging post for our next unknown adventure. Usually one would have headed straight to Bamako in Mali from here (approx 4 BC's away) but we decided to detour north to the Oasis desert towns of Tirjit, Chinguitti and Oudane. This also gave the Senegal guys a bit of extra time to have a look around and to organize the irregularly scheduled train to Bamako (if it was running at all ??)
Our 1st BC on a dry riverbed by the Oasis spring of Tirjit saw us get bogged enough to have to stop in our tracks, where we were to resume recovery tactics in the morning when it was light enough. The idea to sleep out of tents was once again taken upon by most of the group – only to be sandblasted throughout the night and following morning. The sandstorm that came around was what most of us had originally expected on our Sahara Desert crossing- so another element of nature at work was included in our list of trip experiences. Once we were out of the river bed onto solid ground– and as we gave a quick check over of the truck– a local driving by must have presumed we were in trouble or had broken down. His outstretched arm came out of his jeep holding 5 baguettes !!! Without so much as a word – off he went – never to be seen again. Just like that, another example of blatant generosity and hospitality was thrown in our faces – again being somewhat of a culture shock to some of us who don't experience this in our normal day to day lives. Something of a regular and common occurrence out here – and one experience to savour.
Some long driving days ahead but also some great B/C's as well. Our 1st real experience of majorly corregated piste roads – making for a dusty and bumpy ride at the back. Beautiful Mt. scenery ribboned with copper lead sediments led us to the edge of the desert, where the town of Chinguetti was awaiting us. Now a world heritage sight and still the 7th City of Islam – its history leaves more of an impact than the actual town itself. The original town of 777 is all but buried under the neighbouring sand dunes. The two remaining areas of the city are split between the old and new quarter. The old quarter allowed us a chance to visit one of the Koranic libraries housing manuscripts of the holy word of Islam from hundreds to thousands of years old. Most of these libraries are guarded by local families in their homes under traditional lock and pick keys.
Chinguetti used to be a major caravan post for as many as 30,000 Camels travelling on the trading routes through Sub Saharan Africa – all carrying Salt, Dates and other commodities to trade. Some of us found enough time here to order up a local meal of fried camel meat from one of the non descript restaurants in town. With the last remaining Ougies spent – another tasty experience and full belly was achieved.
The next caravan town of Oudane lies to the north, spilling down in ruins from the escarpment from which it was built. After a couple of hours walking around – some of us spotted the local wildlife that now resides between the ruins and the local rubbish deposit – the rock hyrax. Whether we wanted to or not – all of us seemed to attract the attention of literally hundreds of flies which proceeded to land and cover most of our backs. This sort of summoned the realization in some of us that we were more manky than we had realized !!!! Oh well – every day in Africa adds a new element to the trip – whether it's pleasant or not.
Also stopping briefly at the small village of Tin Labbe – it was a weird feeling driving through and feeling the total inhibition by the local population to our visit. No one seemed to bat an eyelid – even when we briefly had a "stuck stuck" moment - one of the locals came along and helped to dig out the truck and without so much as a word, went back to what he was doing before we had interrupted him. It was almost as if we were invisible for a while – just looking from the outside in. A change from the hassle and haggling which had already been apparent in many places through which we passed. Most of us walked through the picturesque oasis town – with a lot of the houses having doors made out of flattened BP / Shell oil drums. Nothing goes to waste here.
Heading back to N'Chott we prepared ourselves for a couple of days BC to the frontier with Mali. We unexpectedly regained Han while we passed through the capital - unfortunately he was turned back at the Senegal border – meaning that some sweet talking had to be done to allow him back into Mauritania (from where he had officially exited – with no ways or means to get another valid visa !!) Miss communication and wrong info from the Senegal embassy stating that visas could be organized at the border, was the catalyst in a whole string of bad luck for our adventure bound Han. He was ecstatic to see and hear the truck pull in, and swore to never leave the truck again (until the next time that is !!)
Our journey through southern Mauritania (heading into Mali) bid farewell to our visit with some beautiful and picturesque BC's – in fields grazed by herds of cattle – some of which would walk through our camps on their way to wherever. Scenery ranged from multi coloured valleys of sand dunes, rugged and flat topped mountains, to roadside villages busy with trade and aromas of street food wafting through the truck. Just by hanging out of the truck windows we could have bought anything from a side of beef to a bag of warm sugary dough balls – the latter being the choice of all.
)
)
)
)