No Ma-am, we are not in Syria, we are in Egypt!" said the taxi driver.
"Syria street". I emphasized the street part, and then noticed the twinkle in his eye as he burst into loud cackles of laughter at his joke. I joined him in laughter at my expense.
We were in Cairo and I was trying to work out the best method of getting round town. Normally that is the least of my problems when travelling; I walk or catch a bus. However, Cairo was different. Yes, Cairo was certainly different.
Before I arrived in Egypt, I thought Palermo in Sicily would hold the world record for pedestrian safety. If after negotiating traffic in Palermo you managed to come out unscathed, you could cope with anything. I have changed my mind. Cairo would win 'hands down'. It has a crazy traffic system of its own yet it seems to work.
It takes considerable dexterity and courage to attempt to come to terms with the traffic in Cairo. There are few traffic lights and vehicles do not recognise the faint white lines that give any indication of pedestrian crossings. There is only one way to tackle the problem. You must step off the footpath into a maze of speeding traffic and quietly and confidently zigzag between moving vehicles. Paramount to this action is a strong faith that you will reach the other side in safety. After your first attempt your legs turn to blobs of jelly when you realise you have made it. It does get easier but it is still a little draining on the nervous system.
It is not only crossing roads. The footpaths are like an obstacle track. Steps, humps, holes, or protruding concrete blocks can be a nasty trap to the unwary. In addition, Cairo has far more cars than parking space so inevitably cars park on the footpath and across alleyways. The only thing to do is meander from sidewalk to street where the wind from the passing traffic keeps you cool even if your nerves get a trifle frayed.
The best option, easiest on the nerves and safety, is to take a taxi. Taxies are cheap and can add to your Cairo experiences plus provide you a few good stories to entertain family and friends back home. However, I have great admiration for the taxi drivers of Cairo; they keep their cool and patience even when there are endless waits and intricate weaving techniques with which they have to contend.
I digress.
I was in Cairo and waiting to join our group of travellers going to Beijing. Some of the group had already finished a leg of the trip from Tunisia but a few of us had to forego Tunisia and Libya due to visa problems. I was a little nervous as to their reaction and acceptance of a person from an older generation. I need not have worried. When they arrived in Cairo, they were bubbling over with their adventures so far and were eager to tell any listening ear, whether young or old, about their experiences. It boded well for the rest of the trip.
Most of the group were in their twenty's stretching into the thirty decade. Susan, my roommate was the youngest at 18. Nearly all of the group were ardent travel bugs that had travelled extensively. I do not think age will count against me rather the acceptance criteria will be a love of travel and willingness to join group activities and try anything. Our first day in Cairo proved to be test number one.
We went to Giza to see those amazing pyramids and the Sphinx. They are probably the most famous of all objects associated with Cairo but to actually see them and step on those great blocks of stone was unreal. They are just outside Cairo and after driving in the crowded town, suddenly you are on the edge of a mighty desert. The crowds, the dust, and heat transported you into another world. I loved them, However the test. A camel ride! Would I manage without showing how scared I was?
I boldly went forward with the group and a young lad helped me mount a camel. It felt okay on the ground and I felt my fear subsiding. Then the camel stood up in two jerky movements and my fears quickly returned. I thought I would slide off! I clutched at a holder on the saddle and felt a wincey mite better. I have never even been on a horse let alone a camel. We started to move and as long as we did not go down too many slopes, I felt I was coping and not showing outward signs of my trepidation.
My camel was a splendid aristocratic animal with bright red and multi coloured saddle coat. The young lad took my camera to take my photo and I had to lose one hand from the saddle, but only for a moment! I think I would have felt more secure if both feet had been in a stirrup but they only have a stirrup for one foot. The wind was strong with sand swirling around and I was scared I might take flight!
Okay so it proved to be fun. I started to enjoy the ride and if I get the chance another time, I will not be so timid. I think I am even looking forward to another camel ride. Did I pass the test in the eyes of the others? I think so. I hope so.
I like to rise early in the morn and my room- mate is a heavy sleeper so we are a good combination. I can slip out early in the morning without disturbing her and the hurdles of walking are not nearly so difficult. You have space to see individuals and get a more intimate feel of the town, the people, and their culture.
In Cairo, the aseh (a kind of flat bread) sellers are on the streets early in the morning. A thin bamboo framework is all that keeps the bread off the pavement, while some of the bread in used plastic bags sits directly on the footpath. A few hours later, when they have sold their supply they are gone. One morning I gazed in amazement at a cyclist speeding along balancing on his head a basket about four feet wide and piled high with flat bread. An amazing feat! I was so intent watching him that too late I realised I had missed my chance of a unique photo.
Donkeys with carts loaded with vegies often appear to be a family affair. They trot around the streets and park wherever they can find space and sell directly to passers-by. Two of three of the group work together on the spot to prepare the vegies for sale while often a couple, maybe the older childen, will put their sales skills to use as they persuade any one passing that the quality of their produce is far superior to any other.
Amongst the food are the footpath sweepers. They use long bristled green or orange gem brooms, which manage to clear some of the surplus plastic and rubbish but hardly dent the heaps of litter and dirt. They have not a hope of keeping up with the huge amounts of excess conglomeration.
Schools often start at eight o'clock. The little children are so beautiful with their sparkling eyes and cheeky smiles. Some of the older ones smile shyly while others like to try out their understanding of English.
"Haa loo," they say, "where from?"
If you greet them back copying their accent they grin and dance around so happy that you have responded. They are delightful.
In Cairo, there are a few signs in English and I spotted one, which said,
"Look at life differently."
How very apt. It is so important to accept people and their cultures as they are and not try to judge by our own standards.
There are very wealthy people in Cairo but most of them are very poor and live on a pittance but they are very proud. You see little evidence of any beggars.
Many people, not only the young, do such menial jobs for so little recompense. The pavement sellers, shoeshine cleaners, car washers, rubbish collectors, street sweepers to name just a few.
So many people work at jobs we would consider beneath the dignity of an adult.
I talked to a police officer on duty at the Citadel. He spoke a tiny bit of English and was delighted to have a listening ear to break the monotony of his work.
He worked every day from 6am until 5 pm for 13 days and then he had seven days off when he went home to his family at Aswan. When doing police duties, he was able to stay at the police barracks at Cairo. This provided him with a bed when he was working. He proudly told me that he sent his entire money home for the family by the Post Office. Two or three times he repeated 'The Post Office' to make sure I knew he was telling me the truth. How much? For the three weeks LE 350. That is the equivalent in New Zealand of about $80.00. So roughly, for a week he earned NZ$26.00! That left nothing for himself for food or incidentals so for the two weeks he worked in Cairo he did another stint of six hours a night at a cafe for LE 15.00, about NZ$3.50. Maybe that was for a week maybe a night, I could not quite understand. A pittance. However, he did say that he received more working in Cairo than if he was at home in Aswan.
His closing comment with suitable action of hands under head and eyes closed was,
"Me very tired, but I do it for my family."
Look at life differently?
Another morning in a tiny garden in Damascus street close by our hotel, I met Tarhany, a Muslim woman who described herself as a 'culture engineer.' Dressed in her long robe and chandor she looked the most unlikely person to work in a garden.
Look at life differently?
An overnight train trip to Luxor with a return trip the following night provided another view of Egypt.
The Valley of the Kings. Hidden outside the city in a valley enclosed by walls of steep rugged rocky barren mountains, the tombs of the rulers of Egypt show how much emphasis they placed on life after death. As soon as a ruler's reign began, they would start building these elaborate tombs filled with symbolisation and art. When they died, treasures and riches were buried with them. This procedure was necessary to ensure them a place worthy of their position in the after-life.
Temple remains from 2000 B.C. added a further dimension with the ancient Egyptian obsession and belief in gods that controlled every aspect of their life.
A short sail in a felucca on the Nile provided the perfect ending to the day. The sunset was glorious. As the sky darkened, one side of the Nile was twinkling with the lights of a modern city. However, the other side of the river revealed the stark silhouette of camels, people and palms etched against a sky of glowing red and gold. I could have been far from civilisation in the centre of Africa.
A magical finish to an amazing day.
Look at life differently?
I think that during this trip I will have many opportunities to say these words.
I would like to make it clear that these personal observations and meanderings are from my point of view and from what I comprehend from people whose language I do not understand.
Cairo, Egypt)
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