Could you answer the question, how many bones are in your body?
If, like me, you are a little deficient on bone structure and their functions, I can tell you an instant and easy way to hone in on your anatomy skills. Take a desert crossing on a truck and by the end of the day you will know exactly where every bone in your body is!
I have to admit I am not as young as I like to pretend to myself. There are times when my bones object to my pretence and react in accordance with their rightful age. However, there is one thing of which I am certain. I am glad I was not made like a robot and my bones connected with bolts! If that were the case, I would spend a great part of each evening tightening up every nut in my body!
Our big yellow truck is a trusty machine but on the rough roads, it does have its limitations. While the roads through the Kara-kum desert provide little variation in scenery, their surface structure more than compensates for that lack. There was no chance of George falling asleep, as he needed all his wits on high alert negotiating some long stretches of bumpy roads. Even at a slow speed, I felt we were travelling on the waves of the sea or the ruts of a ploughed paddock!
The truck swayed and lurched from side to side. Then fresh road corrugations would change the rhythm as the wheels tried unsuccessfully to skim along the top of potholes. Instead, they would get lost in the bad patches so they bounced and jiggled up and down in wild abandon.
We did have free air-conditioning but that too came at a price. In the heat, we always travel with the side windows rolled up, allowing the air to blow freely through the truck. However, with the air was free sand and grit. No use trying to maintain a fancy hair-do. Scarves or a short haircut was the only answer.
I like to think I have toughened up since the start of the trip. Many of the rattles and jangling noises no longer bother me. Perhaps I am getting younger. Okay, wishful thinking!
The young ones never notice bumps and noises but they are a generation used to noise. I guess most of what I call noise is music to their ears. However, like the others I was more than glad when we halted for our bush camp the first night of our crossing. The word bush camp is a rather misleading description for our desert camp as there was certainly no bush! A few scrubby desert bushes and endless sand dunes.
Before I left home, I told my sister that one of the highlights for me would be crossing the Gobi desert in China.
"I have always wanted to cross the Gobi Desert," I said. She laughed and thought I was nuts.
"Why in the wild world," she replied, "would anyone want to cross the Gobi desert?" I think she lacks my spirit of adventure.
"Oh," I said, "I have always wanted to visit the Gobi since reading a book about two intrepid women, Mildred Cable and Francesca French. They went to the Gobi as missionaries in the 1920's, living and working alongside the people. They were amazing women who survived incredible experiences."
Maybe now I have slight reservations about the Gobi. Maybe the softer option of a more luxurious vehicle would be more appealing. Am I getting soft?
On our truck, we have five groups. Each group is responsible for certain duties. Cook for the day requires the most planning and brainpower. The other two job assignments are setting up for meals and looking after our trusty truck. In between days are 'Yippee rest days!' Cook days only apply when we are camping out.
Ray, one of my group, was a chef, so he does all the overseeing of the dinner meal. I am content to follow instructions. My style of cooking is too bland to suit most of the young adventurous travellers we have on the truck. They like their food full of spices and herbs. I prefer to use seasonings with discretion!
Unfortunately, for me, that first night in the desert, our group was on cook duties. Normally this is not a problem as there is plenty of time and pleasant surroundings in which to prepare a meal. With my eyes full of grit and feeling limp, weary, and dirty, I helped prepare the meal. I was not the only sluggish one that night, both my two companion cooks were feeling weary with heat and sandy dirt as well.
In spite of the adverse conditions, it was not long before we had two big pots of tasty food ready. One of curried veges and the other of rice. It is amazing but once fortified with food everyone's spirits were back to normal.
Hygiene on the truck is top priority. Before anyone prepares or eat anything, they must wash their hands thoroughly in a bowl of water and disinfectant. After the meal, every one washes their own dishes. The plates pass through a three bowl, process. The first bowl is for rinsing and the next has detergent for washing. Then there is a final bowl for rinsing in a light disinfectant.
The drying process is simple. No towels. Everyone flaps! You take your dish and utensils and wave them wildly in the air. Each person develops his or her own particular style. Some use long up and down movements while others prefer using the windmill action. Some go slowly but others like to think the faster you move the dish through the air the quicker it dries. There are a few, who develop a sophisticated swirl and twirl. I prefer the windmill action it is good exercise for the arm muscles. After a day on the truck, it stretches unused muscles and keeps you in trim.
Everyone shares in the cleaning up process. I am sure that strict attention to following the above process is the reason why we have had so few of the nasty little bugs that seem to be a hazard of travel.
That first night in the desert, I had a further disadvantage in that after the meal cleaning up I still had to put up my tent. The others have partners who put up their tents while they cook. I told myself that the luxury of listening to my own snores was worth the effort of putting up a tent on my own.
There was not much choice over tent sites but setting up beside a bit of a scrubby bush helped you imagine you were not out in the middle of the no-where!
As I carried my tent to a likely site, I tried to pretend it was not heavy but every muscle in my body ached and the thought of getting my tent up alone before it was completely dark was almost too much. However, I was not going to admit that age was telling on me. I was struggling with one top piece of the tent when Ed came over to offer his help. I was more than glad to accept.
The desert might appear empty of all but scrubby bushes and sand. That is far from the truth. My first encounter with some of the abundant wild life was when I put up my tent. I was horrified to see these huge big black beetles crawling around the sand. They were over an inch long and almost as wide. What was worse, they not only crawled but also would take off and fly. While not as bad as spiders that send creepy feelings up my spine these big beetles did not exactly allay my fears of crawly things that might attack during the night. Our tents have ground sheets and mosquito nets all attached so I made sure I had not locked one of those little monsters inside the protective layers of tent.
Over dinner, Doug had announced to us that he had spotted a scorpion when he was putting up his tent. Maybe a big black harmless beetle would be a minor consideration.
I knew there were snakes so I moved with heavy tread. Vibrations tell a snake that someone is near and I am told they are scared of people. I wanted to make sure they knew I was camping on a piece of their territory for the night so they would keep away.
I have also read that there are giant lizards that are harmless but grow up to a meter and a half! I only saw the little ones scurrying about like quicksilver, some with a bright lime green scaly coat that looked so pretty.
I may make it sound that the desert is a place full of unpleasant experiences. Not so. It is quite an amazing place to see. It is full of wondrous little plants that survive its rigors. Next morning as I wandered around, I came across little flowers that were like jewels in the wilderness. One little delicate pink flower I saw was an absolute picture in perfection. Another had pure white starry flowers like snowflakes. Even the many little prickly plants were amazing to look at close up. It is incredible how plants can survive in the desert but they all have their inbuilt means of withstanding the harsh conditions.
Later that night, all duties finished, I wandered off by myself to revel in a sunset that was breathtaking in its glorious array of vivid hues of red and gold.
The darkness deepened and a peaceful quietness settled all around me. I could hear the silence. I could feel the silence. I found myself caught up in the magic of the desert. The beauty of the desert lies in its quietness.
Did you know that you could hear silence? You hear sounds within and without. Sounds you have never heard before. Standing in the balmy, still night I felt overcome with an overwhelming feeling of tranquillity and peace. The silence surrounds and encompasses you. You are alone yet at one with a wondrous world.
The desert has a lot to offer and is a marvellous experience.
You can do it in style in a comfortable, air-conditioned bus and travel to hotels that provide more comfort and protection from desert elements and wildlife but going it rough is an experience worth remembering.
While I still have to experience the Gobi, my first night in the Kara-kum will be always special to me.
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