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Peru Encompassed 06 Diary Entry
This is a thank you to all at Oasis Overland as we had such a good time on your holiday and simply have to tell you about it. By the time we'd read your pre-departure dossier we were already excited but the trip exceeded our hopes again and again. Daphne and Richard Borthwick
For those who like cities, there is plenty to interest and occupy them in Lima, but it was the country, the people and the tourist sites that drew us, with Machu Picchu being the obvious star attraction. We were lucky in being a small group and we all got on very well indeed, headed by our tour leader, Ricardo. He was always smiling and cheerful, ready to exchange our dollars for us, answer the continuous flow of questions, direct us to shops or laundries, book restaurants - and he was good company too. Being Peruvian, his street cred wasn't in question, and his English is very good. One thing he couldn't control though and that was 'Peruvian time' which became a running joke; punctuality isn't the Peruvians' strongest point but it wasn't a problem to us - and occasionally the anticipated timing was met exactly.
Our first adventure was going by local bus to Pisco, home of Pisco Sours - very more-ish indeed. We toured the Paracas Peninsula with guide Lucio, very interesting, and then had a rip-roaring evening over a delicious dinner in our hotel, the Posada Hispana. Next day we went by boat out to the Ballestas Islands with Silvio as guide. The boat was fast, hitting the waves hard in the cross current and there was much shrieking and laughter as we bumped about on our seats with the spray flying by on either side. The seals, sea-lions and bird-life were in prolific numbers and I spotted 4 Inca terns - very proud of myself as Silvio said there were only about 100 in total.
We moved on to the Tacama winery for wine- and Pisco sour-tasting and then drove to Huacachina in the Ica desert. Ricardo said this would be our most basic hotel, the Salvatierra, and he was right but it was a great conversation piece and in the most stunning setting of HUGE sand dunes rising in an arc around a beautiful, tranquil oasis. In late afternoon we went dune buggying and sand-boarding. For sheer fun and exhilaration this treat got the gold star of the whole holiday - I am hooked. We watched the sun go down from the top of the dunes with only the sound of the wind in our ears. Who cares about a basic hotel when you have memories like this? Anyway, the breakfast was great ....
Next stop was Nazca where we had a communal room so we could stow our bags until the evening. A few of us took a light aircraft over the famous Lines. I had difficulty in seeing some of them in time for good photos as there are so many but was thrilled with the whole thing - the reality after years of just reading about them. After dinner we boarded our luxury coach for the overnight drive to Arequipa; it was luxurious, with seats that really reclined and we had a far more comfortable night than on any plane. The Abuela Hotel in Arequipa is set in terraced grounds and one breakfasts at tables on the terrace or the grass, with birds, wild and caged, all around one, just idyllic. The town itself boasts several tourist attractions and has a lovely, arcaded central square. Several sites were closed as we were there over Easter, but instead the town seemed to come alive in the evening, with stalls of food and goods everywhere and the streets thronging with people celebrating the festival. The town was our base for a trip to the Colca Canyon to see the condors. What an experience; we stopped briefly en route at a pass at 4900m where a group of Quecha women had set up stalls of craftwork and I quickly became appreciative of the effects of altitude - couldn't remember the Quecha phrases I'd just learned, forgot to bargain and developed a raging headache, all in the space of 10 minutes. The scenery was breathtaking though and our hotel was in a glorious landscape too. We left at 6am next day to be at the Canyon by 8 for the condors' first flight. Hundreds of people gasped at their appearance and they put on a marvellous show for us, sometimes only specks in the distance but once swooping low over our heads, wonderful, what majestic birds.
We flew from Arequipa to Cusco next morning and had tantalising glimpses of the mighty Andes through the clouds. The climatic contrast was stark, from dry, clear, desert air to cool drizzle and lots of greenery. We stayed at the very nice Tika Wasi Hotel. Cusco has so much to offer the traveller, in and outside the city and as we didn't trek the Inca Trail (we're in our 60s and know our limitations!) we took full advantage. The Sacred Valley tour is wonderful but we added visits to Tipon, Piquillacta, Andahuaylillas, the Moray at Maras and the Salt Pans as well as exploring the city itself. All the sites are different and extraordinary in their own ways and we had an excellent guide in Fritz. Of course, we also visited Machu Picchu and in fact booked 2 nights at Gringo Bill's in Aguas Calientes to enjoy it at a leisurely pace. The rest of our party trekked the Inca and Salkantay Trails and apart from being totally exhausted on their return, were utterly elated at their achievements and had had a lot of fun. We had booked a private guide, Jose Luis, for our day at this special site and he proved a very good investment. He was at our hotel at 5.20am to meet us and we were on the second bus up to the ruins, arriving before 6. The next hour will be imprinted on our minds forever. Although hundreds of people were arriving, no one had reached the main section of the ruins, so we were able to stand and gaze to our hearts' content. Everyone was quiet, there was just a hint of a breeze and the clouds were still low over the mountain tops but slowly rising with the sun, still hidden at this point. As it slipped over the rim of the mountains cameras clicked continuously but otherwise it was still quiet and a very powerful spiritual, emotional atmosphere prevailed. As we set off around the ruins our minds were focussed on them and two hours later Jose Luis left us to guide his next group. We went around the site again at our own pace but with the crowds and the later hour the atmosphere of the dawn was gone. Machu Picchu is special, unique, breath-taking, awe-inspiring, immensely interesting - but one must see it to appreciate that, and for us, dawn is the only time.
The last part of our holiday was the jungle, and despite the glories of Machu Picchu, for me the best was saved for last. We flew into Puerto Maldonado and were met by a representative from EcoAmazonia Lodge. We were whisked off in their truck, first to their office where we left our unnecessary luggage, and then straight to our boat on the river. The Lodge is laid out very attractively indeed, run very efficiently and the food and service is excellent. There is also a lovely pool - most inviting after a hot and steamy walk in the jungle. However, very quickly nothing feels properly dry, there is no hot water and no laundry, though a boatman did launder a few items for us as we'd booked an extra night and were travelling as lightly as possible. There is also no electricity until late afternoon so a torch is essential for early starts! All the bungalows and public rooms are well screened against mosquitoes but in the jungle they are everywhere. They adore me and I had dozens of bites on my back through my T-shirt though they caused no discomfort; my insect repellent worked otherwise! As for the rest of our stay - I just wish I could go back for a month. Our jungle walks were marvellous and we saw lots of wildlife; monkeys, caymans, birds, tarantulas, a squirrel, turtles, an aguti, a manqu矯r mongoose, and - star of the show - a huge anaconda, coiled up and resting in the reeds as it had obviously recently eaten. We did see a second smaller one too, basking on a riverbank with half its body still in the water. The boatmen are very skilled and again we were lucky in our wonderful guide, Pedro. These men are passionate about their environment and Pedro's knowledge of the trees, plants and insects as well as all the wildlife, was profound. When we left, I felt very cheated that the time had gone so fast ...
I can only add this: Peru offers such variety that there is something for everyone but it is much more than that. GO - and find out for yourself.
