I've decided to try an alternative to the Inca Trail trek and instead I'm going to trek around (that's around, not up!) Salkantay mountain, the highest peak in the Vilcabamba range at 6271m. I've been promised spectacular mountain scenery, few tourists and a horse in case my legs/lungs can't handle it. Starting in the village of Mollepata, we'll trek for 3 days to the train line at km82 where I'll catch the train to Machu Picchu.
Thursday 7th October - Salkantay trek
A 3 hour drive this morning brought us to the village of Mollepata, a small village high above the Apurimac river. A little further up we found Anton with the horses and we hopped on our sturdy steeds while the jeep with the cooks sped on up the gravel track ahead of us. My horse, Kimusabi, took me along a track that followed the edge of a spur and into the green mountains. Eventually we caught up with the jeep and cooks who had already set up a dining tent complete with chairs and table, not to mention the tablecloth, settings, hand wash basin etc! We ate a very hearty lunch of fruit, pasta, juice and hot drinks - I didn't really feel I'd earned it after only a couple of hours sat on a horse but I was appreciative none the less! Our final leg of the day's journey was a walk to our camp. Again, it was only a couple of hours but this time on foot as we left the jeep behind and the horses carried all the gear. The walking wasn't difficult but the breathing was! It wasn't too bad though and I took a few breaks to take in the scenery and watch the horses coming up the valley. By late afternoon we reached our camp - a grassy, flat area with a stream emerging from a gravely, glacial moraine wall. Soon the guys had everything set up - tents, toilet tent, dining tent and before long we could smell tempting aromas issuing from the latter! We sat down to a 3 course meal - how the cooks produced it, I don't know! Fantastic food. The sun had set and it was damn cold so we sat and talked in the dining tent before scurrying off to our own, glancing up at a black sky full of stars before climbing into our warm sleeping bags. Man, am I glad I got a 4-season one - it's freezing!
Friday 8th October - Salkantay trek
It was a hard task getting out of bed this morning but I was glad I had made the effort as I crawled from my tent and was greeted by the most incredible view! Yesterday's clouds had cleared to reveal the massive, snowy Mt. Salkantay rising smack bang in front of us. I couldn't believe how close it was! After a filling breakfast the guys broke camp and seemingly out of nowhere appeared Carlos the muleteer, complete with mules. The mules were loaded up so my horse was free again to take a different load (me). However, I was determined to do this bit by foot so Kimusabi plodded on ahead while I puffed and panted my way along the narrow track. We made a lot of stops which I was very pleased about, firstly to regain breathing and secondly to look around at the amazing scenery around me. Salkantay stood before us, massive, rocky, snow gleaming in the sun and all around were brown, barren peaks. Occasionally we would hear the loud thundering of an avalanche on the mountain but if you caught sight of it, it appeared as a small flurry of snow, drifting down a distant slope.
Normal breathing regained, we pushed on to the highest point on the trek, the Inkachiriaska Pass at almost 5000masl. Really, it would have been a lot simpler to just get on the horse and let him take me up but no, there was no way I was gonna make life easy for myself! At last I made it and was handed a refreshing drink as I lined up with all my two and four-legged friends on the narrow pass and looked behind to Salkantay and ahead to a new valley. The rest of the day's trekking was easy as we trotted downhill, into and along the valley and we are now camped and awaiting another delicious dinner!
Saturday 9th October - Salkantay trek
After my exertions yesterday I decided to take it easy and let Kimusabi do the work. It would have been easy walking (apart from a few boggy bits!) but it was nice to take in the scenery from the saddle instead of looking where to put my feet all the time. It was a bit cloudier today but we caught glimpses of the white bulk of Salkantay now behind us and in front the valley was clear and becoming greener and more fertile and much warmer as we moseyed along. We started seeing the odd settlement made up of a few small stone houses and animal enclosures. We met a few of the inhabitants on their way home, dressed in bright colours and commenting on how beautiful our horses were! Lunch was served at the meeting point of 3 valleys where an old Inca fort, Paucarcancha, surveyed the surroundings from a spur. A short distance on at Huayabamba we joined the Classic Inca Trail and saw our first trekkers - except those walking it were travelling in the opposite direction uphill while we ambled downhill. There were a lot of red faces and gasping and leaning on walking sticks and for some reason, most didn't return my cheery greetings!
Eventually we reached this campsite at km82 and the end of the trek. Not only did I get to have a shower but it was hot too and the cooks as usual have surpassed themselves. I will be sorry to leave them tomorrow!
Sunday 10th October - Machupicchu
Sadly said goodbye to the horses, mules, cooks and porters this morning before being driven to the small town of Ollantaytambo. It's a lovely place with narrow streets lined with Inca stone walls and channels, overlooked by a fantastic Inca temple built on the hillside. I had time to have a look around before jumping on the train to Aguas Calientes, the nearest town to the famous ruins of Machupicchu. It's not a particularly attractive town but I didn't have too much time to look around it as we had a power cut at 6pm and the whole town is in complete darkness! So, an early night then I guess.
Monday 11th October - Machupicchu
I was on the first bus to Machupicchu this morning at 6am! There were quite a lot of people around but not as many as I expected so it was fairly peaceful once we got to the site. The whole place was shrouded in mist to begin with, I had no idea where I was going! But somehow I managed to find a quiet spot with just a few others and we sat and gazed as the mist lifted and the ruins of Machupicchu emerged! It is the most spectacular setting, high amongst the green lush mountains with terraces cut into the steep sides down towards the Urubamba river below. There are not just the main ruins to see, that are pictured in all the brochures, but also the Temple of the Moon, the Inca Bridge, the top of Huaynapicchu mountain and the Sun Gate. There's a lot to see and a lot of people seeing it but it's still an awe-inspiring, amazing place!
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