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"We were at the border first thing and it was an easy crossing. First stop was the chaotic city of Panjakent for cook group shop, lunch and other standard new country errands."
SAMARKAND, UZBEKISTAN TO GHAZZA VILLAGE, TAJIKISTAN:
"It was a wild introduction to a country that never ceases to surprise! Our destination today was Ghazza Village, a very much off the beaten path place deep in the Fann Mountains and generally used as a base for hikers or people who want to visit Voru, a mountain village untouched by time. I had been here before, but not in a truck and holy shit was it a wild ride. Outrageously narrow rocky roads with rock faces jutting out always in place where the truck has an inch of wiggle room before plummeting off the side. There was a bridge that had zero margin for error, about a centimeter on each side. Al rocked it and it was not only an adrenaline drive, but absolutely stunning. Unlike last time, we stayed at a campsite on the river surrounded by mountains. While I loved our guesthouse, this was pretty special. On arrival we heading to Voru village and watched kids coming home from school on their donkey and fields being worked with ancient plows. We met a real blacksmith still using ancient techniques. It is a really unique and beautiful place. I wanted to do something different for dinner and I did a manti cooking class for everyone. Manti are traditional central Asian dumplings and to learn how to make them and then be fed them in this magical setting was pretty special. This place is well worth the effort and trauma of getting here!"
GHAZZA VILLAGE TO ISKANDERKUL:
"We started the day with a bread making demonstration and ate warm bread fresh from the tandoor! We did the adventure drive in return and encountered a serious traffic jam! So so many animals. Our destination was Iskanderkul, the largest of the mountain lakes in the Fann Mountains and it’s a beauty! We camped right on the banks of the lake, went on speed boat rides and made friends with locals for a brilliant day before heading to the capital."
ISKANDERKUL TO DUSHANBE:
"It is a short distance of stunning scenery to get to the capital, but first you have to cross THE TUNNEL OF DEATH! This 5km tunnel was built to cross the Anzob pass and it is a mostly pitch black and fume filled nightmare, but we made it! I took the group for lunch on arrival to try the national dish, Qurutob. This plate of food is very divisive, it is often called a “bread salad.” Pieces of fried bread are soaked in rehydrated kurut balls creating a type of yogurt sauce. It is then topped with fresh herbs, some salad and meat. It is a very heavy dish and not to everybody’s taste, but certainly worth a try. We hit a fancy pants gastropob for dinner and wandered the empty and deeply Ashgabaty streets on the way back. The next day was not only Eid Al Adha, but my day to do all the last minute preparations for the Pamir Highway!! This is one of the most epic and challenging road trips in the world. One week of high altitude, extreme driving across the Pamir Mountains. A lot of prep has gone into getting ready for it and today was about stocking the truck with food and water and crossing ever t and dotting every i before we hit the road on this brand new adventure."
Let's here about The Pamir Highway!