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Here's what Alexis got up to in Armenia!
TELAVI, GEORGIA TO DILIJAN, ARMENIA: It seems we chose the day and time everybody and their mother decided to cross the border to Armenia, but we made it! What a beautiful drive! Gorgeous landscapes made a bit more intriguing while straddling the Azerbaijani border. Definitely was giving intense vibes! Intense in a different way was our destination. Dilijan is often referred to as the Switzerland of Armenia and you can certainly see why! We stayed at 11 + 1 Hostel by Tumo which I mention because not only is it a fantastic place with caring staff, but the money the hostel makes funds an on property school of design and technology that is tuition free for local students. Great place, great vibes, great cause. There is a lot to do in Dilijan, but I was only able to manage a short hike thanks to a very long to do list to master before we head into some uncharted waters. The hike was through the “Drunken Forest” so called because its towering trees lean as though they just completed a Kakheti wine tour. Stunning views with a dog companion through stunning mountains and forest led to residential streets before returning to the hostel and our first proper meal out. Somehow I managed to order something that was nearly identical to a Cuban dish. Not surprising. Everything we ate was delicious and different from what we’ve tried before. Great introduction to Armenia. I can’t wait to explore more!
DILIJAN TO LAKE SEVAN: Beautiful, clear day at the jewel of Armenia, Lake Sevan! First stop on this high altitude lake was Sevanavank Monastery. Legend says that St. Mesrop Mashtots had a vision of 12 figures walking across the lake and showing him where to built a church and so a church was built by Queen Mariam in the 9th century. This is one of the most iconic images in Armenia and the crowds proved that! I had to run an errand in Sevan town and what little I saw really felt like a deeply grim Soviet town, but I imagine there is a lot to learn and experience here beyond the surface. Speaking of the soviet era, we next stopped at a Soviet viewing platform and a very strange brewery. Normally today would be a lake front bush camp but we were celebrating a birthday! I heard he liked seafood so found a restaurant that allowed us to camp on their beach and it ended up being fantastic food, a gorgeous spot, charming service and atmosphere! We had a cultural experience for sure. Armenia so far is certainly a land of contrasts, curiosities, tragedy, resilience, awe inspiring beauty and it’s a little bit strange…in the best way.
LAKE SEVAN TO YEREVAN: The scenery on today’s drive was like a poem. Rolling hills and valleys exploding in the most vibrant greens with grassland colored with flowers. Our first stop was Geghard Monastery which is a prime example of medieval Armenia and wow did it feel ancient. I was left so impressed. Especially magical was walking into a cave church to find Armenian singers that created a mystical vibe that was like stepping back in time. Next was Garni temple, the only example of a Hellenistic temple that remains in the ex Soviet Union. If that wasn’t cool enough, the views were outrageous. We carried on to Yerevan, the sprawling and dynamic capital city. We first stopped at the Armenian Genocide Museum and Memorial, an emotionally devastating stop, but deeply important to understand the strong people of this nation and it’s diaspora, pay respects and study what leads to such horror and prevent it from happening again. Feels extraordinarily topical. Our lives can change and end in the blink of an of an eye. More Yerevan and less pontificating to follow.
YEREVAN: Yerevan is up there with one of my favorite cities now. It looks a bit harsh at first glance, but it reveals so much. It holds many surprises and has such a sense of humor. The place lingers in the mind (and so does the food!) Our first evening several of us went to the Armenian Opera and Ballet house to see Anoush, the first to ever be performed here and a treasure of Armenian opera. The story was one of tragedy and the pain, joy and devastation that great love can bring. It was also rich with culture and tradition of Armenian village life. Fantastic experience in a fascinating and beautiful Soviet era opera house. Speaking of the Soviet era, I joined a soviet tour that was really excellent. I’m certainly not into celebrating and glorifying brutal communist regimes for obvious reasons, but I am interested in getting to see different sides of a city and a real perspective on life during and post the Soviet period. Our guide was wonderful, funny and informative.The stop I enjoyed the most was “Bangladesh Market” which resides in an area on the outskirts of the city, basically the Armenian version of BFE. This wholesale market was lined with old Russian jeeps and Ladas which served as storage and a base for selling goods. Never seen a market like it! We visited late stage Soviet apartments blocks designed to read CCCP from above, but naturally not entirely finished. We rode the metro line which had some stunning artwork. Loads more interesting experiences and information we wouldn’t have had otherwise. Unfortunately rain cut my city exploration short. That evening the group had planned a dinner as a few people made the choice to fly over our next destination leaving this evening as our last together before regrouping in Ashgabat. Little did I know they had actually planned this for me so they all could be there to celebrate my birthday early. The amount of thought, effort and care literally brought tears to my eyes. I have no words. The restaurant they chose was also phenomenal, highlighting Western Armenian cuisine. I am so moved and now own a cup I will guard with my life as a top prized possession!
YEREVAN TO TATEV: The day started with unobstructed views of Mount Ararat standing tall over Yerevan. More freaking majestic scenery followed. What a stunning country. We tried some new stops on the way to Tatev like Areni 1 Cave which is where they found the world’s first winery! (And the world’s oldest leather shoe). The surroundings continue the wine making traditions that date back thousands of years. Around the corner the scenery changes dramatically and high above stands Noravank Monastery. More intensely ancient churches with a simply mind blowing landscaping around it. I hadn’t intended on another stop, but was intrigued when I noticed we would be passing “Armenia’s Stonehenge” a series of rock formations that has divided the scientific and archeological communities. They still don’t know the whys of this place but pretty cool especially with snow capped mountains in the background. Once again the scenery changed dramatically as we drove the mountain roads above Vorotan Gorge. Crazy beautiful. Tonight I decided to do a homestay in Tatev so we could all have a very different experience in this country, one where we could connect with a family and eat home cooked food. It was probably the best meal of the trip for me and a highlight of our time in Armenia.
TATEV TO BORDER BUSH CAMP: Well certainly not the worst place to spend my birthday!! Wings over Tatev and Tatev Monastery is how I started my 44th year followed by more incredible scenery. Seriously, Armenia what’s up! Every day has surprised and enchanted. I ignorantly did not expect such astounding beauty daily! Lovely bush camp was our last sleep in Armenia. Tomorrow we head to Iran!! My posts will go dark for a couple weeks.
If you're interested in joining a trip like this, where you get to explore Turkey, Georgia and Armenia, our next blog will give you all the details for upcoming departures!